Climbing
The first ascent of University Peak was in 1955, via the North Ridge. The leader was Kieth Hart, University of Alaska. The party consisted of Gib Reynolds, Columbia University, Leon Blumer, Sydney, Australia, Tim Kelley, University of Washington, Sheldon Brooks, Pacific Lutheran College and Norman Sanders, University of Alaska. The climbers started at the foot of the Hawkins Glacier, and negotiated a difficult icefall to gain a basin at around 10,000 feet (3,000 m) elevation, on the west side of the North Ridge. This is still the recommended easiest route, but now one can fly into the 10,000-foot (3,000 m) basin to avoid the icefall. This route is rated Alaska Grade 2+.
A much harder route (Alaska Grade 5) was climbed on the East Face of the peak (from the Barnard Glacier) in 1997, by Carlos Buhler and Charlie Sassara.
This East Face route, named "Third Semester", involves 8,500 feet (2,600 m) of 50-80 degree snow, ice and rock capped with a 300 foot (90 m) vertical ice cliff. The descent is via the North Ridge. The first ascent party took 6 days to complete the traverse, including 2 days of storm that prevented movement.
Read more about this topic: University Peak (Alaska)
Famous quotes containing the word climbing:
“We seldom break a leg as long as we are climbing wearily upwards in our lives, instead we do it when we start going easy on ourselves and choosing the comfortable paths.”
—Friedrich Nietzsche (1844–1900)
“To be seventy years old is like climbing the Alps. You reach a snow-crowned summit, and see behind you the deep valley stretching miles and miles away, and before you other summits higher and whiter, which you may have strength to climb, or may not. Then you sit down and meditate and wonder which it will be.”
—Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1807–1882)
“... climbing the primordial climb,
a dream within a dream,
then sitting here
holding a basket of fire.”
—Anne Sexton (1928–1974)