Example: Deep Water Waves
See also: Airy wave theory and Stokes waveThe Stokes drift was formulated for water waves by George Gabriel Stokes in 1847. For simplicity, the case of infinite-deep water is considered, with linear wave propagation of a sinusoidal wave on the free surface of a fluid layer:
where
- η is the elevation of the free surface in the z-direction (meters),
- a is the wave amplitude (meters),
- k is the wave number: k = 2π / λ (radians per meter),
- ω is the angular frequency: ω = 2π / T (radians per second),
- x is the horizontal coordinate and the wave propagation direction (meters),
- z is the vertical coordinate, with the positive z direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters),
- λ is the wave length (meters), and
- T is the wave period (seconds).
As derived below, the horizontal component ūS(z) of the Stokes drift velocity for deep-water waves is approximately:
As can be seen, the Stokes drift velocity ūS is a nonlinear quantity in terms of the wave amplitude a. Further, the Stokes drift velocity decays exponentially with depth: at a depth of a quart wavelength, z = -¼ λ, it is about 4% of its value at the mean free surface, z = 0.
Read more about this topic: Stokes Drift
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