Name Dispute
The name of the route is disputed: routes in France are named by the person who first bolted the route, while in the U.S. they are typically named by the first ascensionist. In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole "pitch" and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. (Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall.) In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way.
Many Americans consider "Biographie" to be the first half of the route which Petit climbed in 1996 and Realization to be the full route including the extension, whereas other climbers such as Adam Ondra and Sylvain Millet refer to the entire route as Biographie.
Sharma admitted in an interview to kairn.com in April 2010 that the importance of a First Ascent, and the investment in that route before its FA, meant that not anyone could just show up, climb a route (and rename it) without asking anyone else. He was referring to his route "First Round, First Minute" (FRFM, then a project) in Catalunya and, in an interview to planetmountain.com on 20 April 2011 (the day after he sent FRFM), Sharma actually used the name "Biographie".
Read more about this topic: Realization (climb)
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