John Reppy - Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing

In the 1950s and 60s, Reppy was active on Ragged Mountain in Connecticut where he collaborated on many first ascents and on publishing an area guidebook with Sam Streibert. the well-known Reppy's Crack on Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire bears his name and he has made first ascents as of number of routes in the Shawangunks and elsewhere. He made early attempts on Armadillo, a long alpine rock climb on Mount Katahdin, Maine. In addition, he has climbed extensively in England, the Alps and western America.

Reppy has said his earliest interest in rock climbing as a very young teenager was related to the re-opening of small open-pit mica mines in eastern Connecticut during World War II in response to increased war-time demand for electronics materials.

Reppy was among the first climbers in the United States to practice so-called "clean climbing" techniques, which he learned in England. While most climbers of the day were hammering their way up the cliffs with pitons, Reppy helped introduce the use of nuts, which at the time consisted of hex nuts from truck wheels, strung with nylon webbing. Unlike pitons, nuts are placed and removed without the use of hammers and save the rock from permanent damage. The technique often makes placements easier and faster to achieve, and thus may make difficult climbs easier to complete. Many advances in rock climbing were made possible by this method. Among a substantial number of others deserving credit for this trend in the U.S. are Yvon Chouinard and John Stannard.