Climbing History
Distaghil Sar was first climbed in 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart of an Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the South face and continued over the southwest ridge to the highest summit. Three years earlier, in 1957, an English expedition had attempted to climb the mountain from the South and the West, but failed due to bad weather. Likewise, weather foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge. The highest, western summit has been scaled twice since in 1980 and 1982 over the original route. Two attempts over the daunting north face, in 1988 and 1998, were unsuccessful. The eastern summit was first climbed in 1980 by a Polish expedition over the east face, and was reascended in 1983.
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“These are the warnings
that you must forget
if you’re climbing out of yourself.
If you’re going to smash into the sky.”
—Anne Sexton (1928–1974)
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—Mao Zedong (1893–1976)