Via Ferrata - Grading

Grading

Various grading systems exist for via ferrata. Most focus on the level of difficulty of the hardest passage, and use a 5 or 6 point scale. Smith and Fletcher in Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites use grades 1 to 5. The Kurt Schall guides (Klettersteig-Atlas series) use a primarily an A to E 5 point scale, although a F grade has been recently been used, and intermediate grades are also used (e.g. C/D). The website www.klettersteig.de uses grades 1 to 6, although based on the Schall system. In France the 6 classic alpine grades are used: F – Facile; PD – Peu Difficile; AD – Assez Difficile; D– Difficile: TD – Très Difficile: ED – Extremement Difficile (although these grades bear no comparison to their Alpine counterparts). An outline of a 5 level grading system is provided below, but clearly individual guidebooks grades should be checked against their own definitions.

A easy Straightforward path, but exposed. Plenty of climbing aids, possible short ladders. Challenging walking rather than climbing. Surefootedness and a good head for heights main requirements.
B moderately difficult Some steep terrain, smaller footholds, but climbing aids provided. Longer ladders possible. Essentially protected but exposed scrambling. Some use of arms.
C difficult Steep to very steep rock, adequate climbing aids, long ladders possible (or even briefly overhanging). Good fitness and some arm strength required.
D very difficult Very steep to vertical, maybe short/well aided overhanging sections, mainly very exposed. Some climbing aids but often wire rope only. Strong arms and hands required.
E extremely difficult Vertical to overhanging; consistently exposed; very small footholds or friction climbing, usually no climbing aids other than the wire. Sustained arm strength required. Easier sections may be unprotected.

One criticism of these grading system is that they ignores the severity and length of the difficulties – a long, high mountain route with extensive passages of grade D is very different to a short valley route also graded D, but with only a brief difficult section. To overcome this, additional ratings on the seriousness of the route are often provided – the Kurt Schall guides use a five level adjectival scale; Smith and Fletcher use a three point scale A–C. Most guidebooks provide some further information to help assess the nature of a route, such as the length of the route, the maximum height obtained, and even a grade for the quality of the protection.

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