Knowing Your Break
Using swell data, which is readily available on the internet, you can predict how the surf will be for a fairly large area. However, the waves can differ drastically from spot to spot and from time to time. To accurately forecast the surf for a spot you need to understand how different conditions affect the waves there.
Read more about this topic: Surf Forecasting
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—Sophocles (497406/5 B.C.)
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—John Gay (16851732)