Lead Climbing

Lead climbing is a climbing technique used to ascend a route. This technique is predominantly used in rock climbing and involves a lead climber attaching themselves to a length of dynamic (elastic) climbing rope and ascending a route while periodically attaching protection (quickdraws or traditional protection) to the face of the route and "clipping in" to it. The lead climber must have another person acting as a belayer. The belayer has multiple roles: holding the rope in the event of a fall, and paying out or taking up rope as the climber moves.

As lead climbing does not require a pre-placed anchor at the top of the route, it is often seen as less restricted than top roping. Also, because a lead climber does not have an anchor point above them whilst climbing, only the limbs and body of the climber are used to effect upward progress. Protective devices are only placed to catch the climber in the event of a fall.

Lead climbing is an advanced aspect of rock climbing and is not often practised by novice climbers. Like so many other facets of sports climbing, though, this depends on the venue - in Norway, for example, it is relatively common for novice climbers to climb on lead because lead climbing skills are required to qualify for a climbing licence, which in turn is required to rent gear and climb in indoor gyms. Therefore, introductory climbing courses have to feature lead climbing, including fall technique.