Jil Sander - Success and Expansion

Success and Expansion

Since 1978, Sander marketed her first perfume prominently featuring her countenance. The owner of Lancaster Cosmetics allowed her financially to run ads in glamorous magazines on a large scale for her fashion. The fact that her creations were coordinates which could all be easily combined with each other became a popular characteristic. Sander created the so-called onion look (German: 'Zwiebel-Look') layering various pieces of clothing in one outfit. Later, licenses would be given for eyewear and leather accessory lines. In the 1980s, Sander's collections were first shown in Milan to tackle the international markets more efficiently. As a result, sales were steadily increasing. More fragrances were added to the cosmetics line. The label's luxurious minimalism was a hit in the later 1990s.

Jil Sander AG went public in 1989 and was sold to shareholders on the Frankfurt stock exchange among the first fashion houses to venture on such a step. Sander used the new capital to expand in Asia and North America. Her success overseas resulted in expensively furnished flagship stores in Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Taipei among a number of others. Michael Gabellini was commissioned to design the showrooms as well as office spaces in Hamburg. Sander personally oversaw the design of her stores and strict guidelines were implemented for the sales staff on how to behave and where to stand in the boutiques. At the Paris store, opened in 1993, the Jil Sander collections could be shown on more than 9,000 square feet (840 m2) and four floors. The space at 52 Avenue Montaigne in Paris used to be French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet's atelier and showroom, a designer whose work has influenced Sander's. In 1998 Jil Sander and German sportswear house Puma jointly launched a successful sneakers collection.