Horse Pens 40 - Bouldering

Bouldering

Horse Pens 40 is home to one of the most concentrated boulder fields in the world. The boulders are made of "ancient erosion carved sandstone". In most places they are solid enough to climb, however some boulders are made of weaker sandstone that crumbles to the touch. Certain bouldering routes take advantage of this "feature" (such as some of the routes in the Ten Pins section) to add to the difficulty rating of a problem.

Problems at HP40 normally range from V0- to V11. In addition, several problems beyond V11 are ranked. HP40 is famous for its slopers and difficult top-outs and mantles. Beta provided by the park rates the exposure on a problem on a "carnage" scale ranging from "Casual"-"Sketchy"-"Scary"-"Nuts". Some routes are particularly exposed and have dangerous top-outs, with "highball" risks and lots of falling danger.

Horse Pens 40 sponsors several bouldering competitions per year, including the largest leg of the Triple Crown competition, the annual spring "Sloperfest Slap-N-Jam" competition and live music festival, the Chandler Mountain Challenge, and more. Although bouldering takes place year-round, the best time of year to climb at HP40 is early fall to late spring. The day use fee (which includes bouldering) costs $6.50 to $8 per day and covers you from 8am until sundown. Primitive camping costs $13 to $15 per night (from sundown to sundown) and includes bouldering access. Night bouldering is free for campers, and is especially popular during the warmer months due to better friction offered by the cooler nighttime temperatures.