Eric Shipton - Mountaineering Highlights 1922-1973

Mountaineering Highlights 1922-1973

  • 1922: Visited Cirque de Gavarnie in the Pyrenees with his family
  • 1924: Mountain walking in the Jotunheimen (Norway) with Gustav Sommerfelt
  • 1924 December: Guided ascent of the Gross Lohner and the Tschingelochtighorn above Adelboden
  • 1925: Guided up Monte Disgrazia & first Alpine season in the Dauphiné guided by Elie Richard
  • 1926: Second season with Elie Richard
  • 1927: Climbed in French ranges then completed several major climbs including Zmutt Ridge
  • 1928: Traversed Matterhorn, climbed major peaks in Alps
  • 1929: Explored Mount Kenya then made first ascent of Nelion by east face and several other climbs
  • 1930: Climbed on Kilimanjaro with Bill Tilman
  • 1930: Climbed again making first ascents on Mount Kenya during which Tilman fell and had to be lowered unconscious from the face.
  • 1931: First ascent with Frank Smythe of Kamet, then Shipton took part in 8 more first ascents in the Arwa Valley region
  • 1932: Climbed Mount Speke, Mount Baker, and Mount Stanley with Bill Tilman
  • 1933: Joined Hugh Ruttledge's unsuccessful Mount Everest expedition after which several nearby peaks were climbed
  • 1933 July: Attempted crossing the Lasher Plain to Sikkim, climbed Lhonak Peak.
  • 1934: With Tilman were the first to gain access to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the party then explored the Badrinath range, then returned to the Nada Devi Sanctuary where they made the first ascent of Maiktoli before leaving via the Sunderdhunga Col.
  • 1935: Led the Everest Reconnaissance Expedition which included Bill Tilman who was unable to acclimatise although the party made the first ascent of twenty 20,000 ft. peaks in the Everest region. Shipton gave a 19 year old Tenzing his first opportunity as a 'porter' when he was taken on in Darjeeling.
  • 1936: Joined a second Ruttledge-led attempt on Everest then returned to survey the Nanda Devi Sanctuary then climbed in the region of the Rhamini Glacier crossing the Bagini Pass
  • 1937: Joined Tilman on the Shaksgam Expedition, exploring and mapping the northern approaches to K2
  • 1938: Another abortive attempt on Everest with Tilman as leader
  • 1939: Led The Karakoram Survey Expedition
  • 1941: Climbed in the Kashgar Range
  • 1942: Climbed and explored Bogdo Ola Group
  • 1947: Explored Tushuk Tash and discovered Shipton's Arch, attempted Muztagh Ata
  • 1948: Explored Bogdo Ola Group, attempted Chakar Aghil
  • 1951: Led the Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition of that year, making a first attempt from Nepal, in the party for the first time was the young Ed Hillary
  • 1952: Led the unsuccessful Cho Oyu Expedition, after which eleven Mountains were climbed to the west of Nangpa La
  • 1957: Led the Imperial College Karakoram Expedition, surveying five glaciers in the process
  • 1958: Explored at the heads of Lago Viedma & Lake Argentino; climbed peak above Onelli Glacier in Argentine Patagonia
  • 1959: Expedition up the O'Higgins Glacier to the foot of Cerro Lautaro
  • 1960: Crossed the Southern Patagonia Ice Field in 52 days
  • 1962: Crossed the Cordillera Darwin making the first ascents of Cerro Yagán and Mount Darwin's three peaks; Unsuccessful attempt on Monte Burney
  • 1963: Second abortive attempt on Monte Burney, then ascended Monte Bove and Pico Francés
  • 1964/5 Starting from the San Rafael Glacier crossed the Northern Patagonia Ice Field to the Cochrane River, making the first ascent of Cerro Arco in the process.
  • 1966: Unsuccessful attempt on the East Ridge of Mount Russell in Alaska
  • 1973: Made first ascent of Monte Burney Via West Spur

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