The Drape Suit During World War II
The drape suit remained popular during World War II, being a familiar and stable piece during uncertain times. A man’s shoulders remained broad, fluid and natural; his chest appeared full and muscular “with the deeply rolled lapels”; “his waist and hips were made trim with the raised coat waistline and ventless skirt”. By the mid 1930s, “two subtle changes added a touch of modernity to the athletic suit style”. The first modification was the alteration of the peaked label, which became wider in width and angled more upwards. This added more fullness and width to the ‘masculine’ chest. The second modification was the alteration of the sleeve armholes to become more narrow and raised. This added more fullness and width for a ‘masculine’ impact in the broadness of the shoulders and narrow waist.
In the 1950s, men’s fashions followed the trend of women’s. With Christian Dior’s New Look for women, came the Bold Look and Continental Cut for men. The Bold Look was the continuation of the English drape cut with greater emphasis on the coordination of the suit with its accessories and shirt. It continued to have broad shoulders with a slightly nipped in waist and a double-breasted suit jacket. This cut was anchored in the WWII version, without the war restrictions.
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