Climbing Achievements
Early in his career he was to climb several new Scottish routes with Robin Smith. Climbs such as The Bat on the Carn Dearg Buttress of Ben Nevis was to help establish them as future stars. Smith was to die in an accident in 1962 but Haston was to live on and realize their early promise. In 1970, with Don Whillans, Haston was the first to climb the south face of Annapurna on an expedition led by Chris Bonington and in 1975, with Doug Scott, he was the first to climb Mount Everest by the south-west face, also on an expedition led by Bonington. His memorial in Currie mistakenly claims he was the first British climber to ascend the north face of the Eiger. In fact, this honour went to Bonington and Ian Clough in 1962, but Haston made the first ascent of the Nordwand by the direttissima, or most direct route, in 1966 with Jorg Lehne, Gunther Strobel, Roland Votteler and Siegefried Hupfauer. American John Harlin was killed when a rope snapped (the ropes being used were chosen by Harlin although Haston had requested that they be thicker) and the route was subsequently named after him.
In 1967 he became director of the International School of Mountaineering at Leysin in Switzerland, a position he maintained until his death in 1977.
Read more about this topic: Dougal Haston
Famous quotes containing the words climbing and/or achievements:
“After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. I have taken a moment here to rest, to steal a view of the glorious vista that surrounds me, to look back on the distance I have come. But I can rest only for a moment, for with freedom comes responsibilities, and I dare not linger, for my long walk is not yet ended.”
—Nelson Mandela (b. 1918)
“There are some achievements which are never done in the presence of those who hear of them. Catching salmon is one, and working all night is another.”
—Anthony Trollope (1815–1882)