Dave Graham (climber) - Off To Europe

Off To Europe

After high school, Graham left for Europe in 2000. He would subsequently spend much of his time climbing at different locales in Europe, with brief return visits to US climbing sites.

• On May 21, 2001 Graham repeated the route Action Directe in the Frankenjura, Germany. Action Directe (FA by Wolfgang Güllich in September 1991) was the world's first 9a, and is generally considered to be the benchmark for the grade.
• On 2002-01-30, Graham repeated Dreamtime (8B+/V14, FA by Fred Nicole) in Cresciano, Switzerland. It had once been considered the benchmark 8C/V15.
• On July 12, 2002 Graham had the FA of the sport route Bah, Bah Black Sheep (8c+) in Céüse, France. This line is near Realization.
• On April 26, 2003 Graham repeated New Base Line (8B+, FA by Bernd Zangerl on 2002 December 12) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. New Base Line has been climbed by Zangerl, Fred Nicole, Graham, Franz Widmer, Christian Core, Daniel Woods, Tyler Landman, Nalle Hukkataival, Paul Robinson, Kensuke Hamada, and Rok Klancnik.

• On January 9, 2005 Graham made the first ascent of The Story of 2 Worlds (8C/V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland by adding a sit-start to the 2003 boulder problem The Dagger (8B+/V14) by Toni Lamprecht. The second ascent of The Dagger part 1 was by Graham in December 2004 (041219). Later on 050301, Lamprecht also added a different sit-start to The Dagger. Lamprecht's sit-start begins on the right of the boulder while Graham's sit-start begins on the left. Lamprecht feels that Graham's Story is harder than his new The Dagger SD. Upon completion of Story, Graham proclaimed it may be the new standard for 8C/V15. (See Dreamtime. The Dagger is actually on the backside of the same boulder that holds Dreamtime.) Graham believed that bouldering was suffering from grade inflation. Subsequently, on his 8a.nu scorecard, he downgraded many of the boulders which he had climbed. He further explained that these are " grades, not the real grades, not the world grades," stressing the subjective and relative nature of grading.
• Then, on March 7, 2005 Graham made the first ascent of From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland, another possible 8C/V15. After completing this problem, he stated that he is as confused as ever about grading, despite his earlier proclamations.
• On April 13, 2005 Graham repeated Bain de Sang (9a in St Loup, Switzerland, FA by Fred Nicole in 1993). Bain de Sang was the world's third 9a. The route took Graham only three tries so despite not downgrading it, he asks whether it may actually be 8c+.
• For about 6 years, Dave Graham lived the expatriate life and climbed in Europe, putting up many other hard boulders, such as Kings of Sonlerto (8B+ in Ticino, Switzerland, FA on 2005 November 11). On 051108, this culminated in the first ascent of Coup de Grace in Ticino. He proposed a grade of 9a+/5.15a for this 80-foot sport route (see Realization).

• In October 2006, right before the Petzl Roc Trip in Kalymnos, Graham did the FA of Titanthrope 5.14c/8c+. He previously tried this line years ago and found new beta this trip and sent it 5th go. Titanthrop is a 65m route up a beautiful blue streaked wall in Kalymnos, Greece. The 65m route took him 45 minutes to climb with thanks to his belayer Sean McColl

• On May 1, 2007 Graham repeated The Mandala sit-start (aka Mandalion), 8B FA by Tony Lamiche) in Bishop, CA.

• On April 7, 2008 Graham made the first ascent of The Island in Fontainebleau, France which he graded 8C/V15 and took him 3 days work.

• In the winter of 2008 Graham added a sit start to Boogalagga in Chironico, Switzerland, suggesting the grade of 8C/V15.