Chirala - Handloom Industry

Handloom Industry

The Chirala formally known as "KSHIRAPURI" is situated on Bay of Bengal is renamed as CHIRALA (CHIRA means saree). The Chirala town well connected to the main railway line and NH 5 road line (Kolkatta to Chennai). And also there is airline service form Gannavaram (Vijayawada) is far from 110 km. . The Chirala area handloom industry is famous since time immemorial for producing variety of fabrics which brought name and fame to the nation as well as to this area. Even before the Industrial revolution taken place in the west, the rural artisan weaver of this area had done marvelous work of producing 7 yards of sari in a match box, which speaks of highest excellence in the art of weaving, unmatched skill and talent of handloom weaver of this area.

During the 13th century the Italian traveler Marco Polo visited this area and mentions about the flourishing handloom weaving and exhibition of skills of the weaver in production of finer varieties, reveals the historic evidence about attaining the peak of excellence in weaving skills. In 1920 a group of weavers have formed a handloom weavers Co-Operative Society. During 1952 a Co-operative spinning mill has been inaugurated by Sri Javaharlal Nehru and runs for about 50 years. Though this area is famous for its production of traditional varieties zari saris and dhoties which has limited for local market. During 1973 the exportable variety known as the "Real Madras hand Kerchiefs" is being manufactured with art silk and zari (metallic thread glittering like gold) on jacquard looms and exported to African countries. The introduction of this exportable variety and its popularity in the weavers of this area had not only improved the living conditions of the weaver but also contributing in earning foreign exchange to the nation. Because of its attractive and glittering design and texture, the cloth is attracting the consumers in foreign countries. The "Real Madras Hand Kerchiefs" variety is also being manufactured in the countries like Bangladesh and China. The quality of the fabric being produced in this area will not give any odd smell to the cloth because of the climate and water used during the process of dyeing. Where as the cloth is produced at Bangladesh and China is not like at this area (Chirala). This variety has run for one and half decade and it comes down. Even now there are about 1000 looms working for this variety and about Rs. 10 crores of stocks are being exported from Chennai. Later they have shifted to lungies, hand kerchiefs, saris, dress material etc. There are about some hundreds of weavers who young and dynamic weavers are shifted to hand paint and spray paint work on saris from the year 1983 on wards for about fifteen years and earned about Rs.6000 to 8000 per month and from last six years the embroidery work is going on and providing some alternate work for those who not interested to continue as weaver. These are also earning about Rs. 4000 to 6000 per month. The saris being supplied by local traders for painting and embroidering work. The embroidered / painted saris are sold at local and also with in the state of other places. And also there is cashew cottage industry which providing work for few hundreds of women during the cashew crop season.

Generally in Chirala cluster the type loom used is fly shuttle loom and this may be equipped additionally with barrel dobby, lattice dobby and jacquard according to the variety of the fabric woven by the weaver. The barrel dobby is used to produce small design with 24 threads of extra warp design on border or at desired place of the fabrics, like dhoties, saris, shirtings and dress material cloth. The lattice dobby is used to produce designs with 48 threads of extra warp design on saris and dress materials. The Jacquard is used to weave designs with extra warp or extra weft or both depending on the fabric requirement. For the weaving of plain fabric the fly shuttle loom alone is enough, no additional attachment like dobby or jacquard is required.

There are about sixty thousand handloom weaver population at Chirala and presently twenty to twenty five thousand weavers are active. These 20 to 25 thousand weavers are working on about 18000 looms. In addition there are fifteen yarn traders, 25 to 30 dyers, 6 designers and card makers using cad system, 50 to 70 hand work designers and card makers and 50 to 100 of other ancillary providers. The annual turn of this cluster is estimated around 100 to 120 crores. The weavers are located in two mandals and of Prakasam district. They are Chirala and Vetapalem mandals. Almost all the weavers belong to the Padmashalia, Devanga and Pattusali of the weavers' community.