Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995.
- Iker Pou on 7 June 2000.
- Dave Graham on 21 May 2001.
- Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003.
- Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005 (his ascent has been questioned by UKC).
- Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005.
- Markus Bock on 22 October 2005.
- Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
- Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008.
- Patxi Usobiaga on 24 October 2008.
- Gabriele Moroni on 17 April 2010.
- Jan Hojer on 22 Mai 2010.
- Adam Pustelnik on 10 October 2010.
- Felix Knaub on 22 October 2011.
- Rustam Gelmanov on 26 March 2012
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI.
It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route.
Famous quotes containing the word action:
“The grand principles of virtue and honor, however they may be distorted by arbitrary codes, are the same the world over: and where these principles are concerned, the right or wrong of any action appears the same to the uncultivated as to the enlightened mind.”
—Herman Melville (1819–1891)