Wood Finishing - Comparison of Different Clear Finishes

Comparison of Different Clear Finishes

Clear finishes are intended to make wood look good and meet the demands to be placed on the finish. Choosing a clear finish for wood involves trade-offs between appearance, protection, durability, safety, requirements for cleaning, and ease of application. The following table compares the characteristics of different clear finishes. 'Rubbing qualities' indicates the ease with which a finish can be manipulated to deliver the finish desired. Shellac should be considered in two different ways. It is used as a finish and as a way to manipulate the wood's ability to absorb other finishes by thinning it with denatured alcohol. The alcohol evaporates almost immediately to yield a finish that is completely safe but shellac will attach itself to virtually any surface, even glass, and virtually any other finish can be used over it.

Appearance Protection Durability Safety Ease of Application Reversibility Rubbing Qualities
Wax Creates shine Short Term Needs frequent reapplication Safe when solvents in paste wax evaporate easy, needs sanding Can easily be removed with solvents Needs to be buffed
Shellac Some yellow or orange tint, depending on grade used Fair against water, good on solvents except alcohol Durable Safe when solvent evaporates, used as food and pill coating French polishing technique difficult to master. Completely reversible using alcohol Excellent
Nitrocellulose lacquer Transparent, good gloss Decent protection Soft and somewhat durable Uses toxic solvents. Good protection is needed, especially if painted Requires equipment. Completely irreversible Excellent soft finish
Conversion varnish Transparent, good gloss Excellent protection against many substances Hard and durable Uses toxic solvents, including toluene. Breathing protection is needed Requires spray equipment. Used in professional shops only Difficult to reverse Excellent hard finish
Linseed oil Yellow warm glow, pops grain1, darkens with age Very little Fairly durable, depending on number of coats Relatively safe, metallic driers are poisonous Easy, apply with rags and wipe off. Takes relatively long time to dry Needs sanding out as oil is absorbed None
Tung oil Warm glow, pops grain1, lighter than linseed Water resistant Fairly durable, depending on number of coats Relatively safe, metallic driers are poisonous Easy, apply with rags and wipe off. Faster to dry than linseed oil Needs sanding out as oil is absorbed None
Alkyd varnish Not as transparent as lacquer, yellowish/orange tint Good protection Durable Relatively safe, uses petroleum based solvents Brush or spray. Brushing needs good technique to avoid bubbles & streaks Can be stripped using paint removers Fair
Polyurethane varnish Transparent, many coats can look like plastic Excellent protection against many substances, tough finish Durable after approx. 30 day curing period Relatively safe, uses petroleum based solvents Application requires some level of skill Can be stripped using paint removers Bad, coats do not meld leading to white rings if rubbing out cuts through coat
Water-based polyurethane Transparent Good protection. Newer products (2009) also UV stable Durable after approx. 10 day curing period Safer than oil-based, fewer volatile organic compounds Brush or spray. Fast drying demands care in application techniques Can be stripped using paint removers Bad, coats do not meld leading to white rings if rubbing out cuts through coat
Oil-varnish mixes Similar to oils unless many coats applied, then takes on characteristics of varnishes Low, but more than pure oil finishes Fairly durable, depending on number of coats (archaic product, rarely used due to availability of modern finishes) Relatively safe, uses petroleum based solvents Easy, apply with rags and wipe off. Faster to dry than linseed oil Needs sanding out as oil is absorbed None unless many coats applied

1 accentuates visual properties due to differences in wood grain.

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