Western Cosmetics in The 1970s - Cosmetics Industry Developments

Cosmetics Industry Developments

The health of the beauty industry declined in the 1970s, as the growth of cosmetics sales failed to keep pace with overall growth in personal spending. The industry, according to a 1979 article in W magazine, had "lost its glamour". Rather than developing innovative products, many companies had depended on price increases for profitability. Consumers considered cosmetics companies outdated, uncreative, and dogmatic, and manufacturers received negative publicity regarding the safety of cosmetics ingredients, animal testing, microbial contamination, and the possibility of acne caused by cosmetics.

The cosmetics industry responded to these challenges in several ways. New products were introduced, especially in skin care and sunscreen lines. Manufacturers emphasized cost controls, quality, and selectivity in product introductions. They also expanded into the ethnic, teen, and men's markets. "Natural" ingredients were incorporated into cosmetics to satisfy growing tastes for organic products.

New marketing and presentation practices also emerged. The custom of having a model as the contractually exclusive "face" of a single company arose when Revlon hired Lauren Hutton to promote their Ultima II line. The strategy was quickly adopted by other companies; notable 1970s spokesmodels included Karen Graham for Estée Lauder, Margaux Hemingway for Babe, and Catherine Deneuve for Chanel. Cosmetics companies also focused on service and appearance at the point of purchase. Clinique's projection of an image of scientific authority using immaculate make-up counters attended by white-coated employees was representative.

Business structures were also in flux. Revlon acquired smaller cosmetics firms, while Max Factor, Elizabeth Arden, and Helena Rubenstein were purchased by larger conglomerates. Independent businesswomen such as Adrien Arpel, Suzanne Grayson, and Madeleine Mono established small, consumer-focused companies to challenge mega-firms.

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