Dynamic Theory of Tides
While Newton explained the tides by describing the tide generating forces, and Bernoulli gave a description of the static reaction of the waters on earth to the tidal potential, the dynamic theory of tides, first introduced by Laplace, describes the ocean's real reaction to the forces. This theory of ocean tides took into account friction, resonance and natural periods of ocean basins. It predicted amphidromic circulation. The presence of large amphidromic systems in the world's ocean basins was long ago theorized, to explain the oceanic tides that are actually observed. The twin bulge theory, based on the actual gravitational gradient from the sun and moon, couldn't explain the various ocean tides. Since measurements have confirmed the theory, many things have possible explanations now, like how the tides interact with deep sea ridges and chains of seamounts give rise to deep eddies that transport nutrients from the deep to the surface. The equilibrium tide theory calculates the height of the tide wave of less than half a meter, while the dynamic theory explains why tides are up to 15 meters.
The theory was developed by Pierre-Simon Laplace in 1775. Satellite data has confirmed the Dynamic theory as accurate, and the tides worldwide are now measured to within a few centimeters. Measurements from the CHAMP satellite closely matches the models based on the TOPEX data. Accurate models of tides worldwide are essential for research since the variations due to tides must be removed from measurements when calculating gravity and changes in sea levels.
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