Jil Sander - Comeback and Abandonment

Comeback and Abandonment

Sander returned to the company as head designer and partner in a surprise decision in May 2003, after her noncompete clause had expired. Officially, Bertelli "approached Ms. Sander and began negotiating a truce". Bertelli had, with regard to Sander's departure in 2000, boldly stated before: "A brand as strong as Jil Sander doesn't need to rely on the name of a designer". She was rehired under a six-year consulting contract and also received an undisclosed stake in the company and a seat on Prada's strategic committee. With much anticipation from the public and press, the designer showcased her signature staple pieces, this time with strokes of color (sherbet-hued dresses, white jackets painted with blue streaks) and flourish (fringed separates, sequined numbers). Sander's return was celebrated unanimously by the international press. Sander's designs, bearing the Jil Sander signature with a more feminine look, were a hit with both customers and critics. Designing two collections which were both showcased in Milan, Sander altered Prada-appointed designer Milan Vukmirovic’s existing sketches for the men’s collection, redesigned some of the boutiques and audited the books herself.

However, in November 2004, Sander terminated cooperation with Prada for good and resigned from her post again after insurmountable differences with Mr. Bertelli. Prada announced in an official statement that "the decision by Patrizio Bertelli and Ms. Sander to end her involvement in the company was amicable." Sander subsequently withdrew from her involvement in her namesake brand. She continued her contributions and work at Uniqlo.

Jil Sander returned to her brand in February 2012, only days after the then creative director, Raf Simons, was released from his position.