Types of Hems and Hem Stitches
Hems of different depths (which includes the seam allowance) may have a particular style to achieve, which requires more or less fabric depending upon the style. A handkerchief-style edge requires a hem allowance of 0.6 cm or a quarter inch. A typical skirt or pant hem may be 5-7.6 cm. The hem's depth affects the way the fabric of the finished fabric will drape. Heavier fabric requires a relatively shorter hem. An interface fabric sewn to the fabric in the hem has a useful function in some hem styles. A bias strip is sometimes used as a hem interface. This adds fullness to the finished garment and reduce wrinkling.
The hem stitches that are commonly used for hand-sewn hems include: pick stitch; catch stitch (also called a herringbone stitch); slip stitch; and blind stitch.
Sewing machines can make a stitch that appears nearly invisible by using a blind-stitch setting and a blind stitch foot. Blind-stitches are commonly used to finish hems of applique designs on fabric. Modern sewing machines designed for home use can make many decorative or functional stitches, so the number of possible hem treatments is large. These home-use machines can also sew a reasonable facsimile of a hem-stitch, though the stitches will usually be larger and more visible.
Clothing factories and professional tailors use a "blind hemmer", or hemming machine, which sews an invisible stitch quickly and accurately. A blind hemmer sews a chain stitch, using a bent needle, which can be set precisely enough to actually sew through one and a half thicknesses of the hemmed fabric. A rolled hem presser foot on a sewing machine enables quick and easy hemming even by home sewers.
Heavy material with deep hems may be hemmed with what is called a dressmaker's hemβββan extra line of loose running stitch is added in the middle of the hem, so that all the weight of the cloth does not hang from one line of stitching.
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A five-thread overlock hem made with a serger machine. This photo shows the inside of the garment. On the outside of the garment, this would appear as a blind stitch.
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A buttonhole stitch hems the opening around a button hole.
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A pick stitch hem made with thread that matches the fabric, to appear invisible on the outside of the garment.
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A plain hem, folded once and sewn with a running stitch.
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