Daniel Mazur - Lincoln Hall Rescue

Lincoln Hall Rescue

At 7:30 am on May 26, 2006, Dan Mazur's team of ascending climbers, eight hours into their planned ascent to the summit up the North Ridge of Mount Everest, encountered a stricken climber at an altitude of approximately 28,000 feet. Mr. Mazur's group consisted of Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Jangbu Sherpa. The team was feeling strong and healthy. They were two hours below the summit. There was no wind and no clouds. Conditions seemed perfect for climbing to the summit. When rounding a corner on the trail to the summit the team found a fallen Australian climber named Lincoln Hall. He was sitting on the trail with his jacket around his waist with no hat and no gloves, mumbling deliriously.

The group found he was suffering from symptoms of cerebral oedema, frostbite and dehydration, generally incoherent in his responses to offers of help. He was alone and hallucinating; without any of the proper equipment for survival in such conditions. Apparently Mr. Hall had collapsed the previous day on his way down from the summit.

The North Ridge is an inhospitable place. Besides being at 28,000 feet, it is located along a severe ridge line, dropping off 10,000 feet to one side and 7,000 feet to the other. Oxygen and proper equipment are virtually essential.

The rescuers replaced the hat, jacket and gloves Mr. Hall had discarded, anchored him to the mountain, and gave him their own oxygen, food and water. They radioed Hall's team, who had given him up for dead, and convinced them he was still alive and must be saved. (Mr. Hall's team leader had called his wife the night before to tell her that Hall was dead) The rescuers arranged for Sherpas from Mr. Hall's team to ascend and help with the rescue. For four hours, Mazur's team stayed to care for Mr. Hall. The rescuers gave up their summit to save Mr. Hall. Phil Crampton coordinated the rescue from the high camp at 26,000 feet, and Kipa Sherpa was the liaison to Lincoln Hall's team at advance base camp at 21,000 feet.

Extended stays at extreme altitude are risky even when planned in advance and when climbers have all the supplies they need. By using their own survival supplies to sustain Hall, they risked not having sufficient oxygen and food to support themselves on the way down, and going to the summit after so many hours spent helping Hall was out of the question. Staying there to care for Hall, they took a risk the weather would turn for the worse and inhibit their descent.

Lincoln Hall was one of Australia’s most celebrated mountain climbers and respected authors of mountaineering books and articles. His climbing and writing career spanned over three decades.

Hall died on 20 March 2012 at the age of 56 in the Royal Prince Alfred Hospital after suffering from mesothelioma, allegedly resulting from his exposure to asbestos in childhood. He is survived by his wife, Barbara, and two teenage sons, Dylan and Dorje.

To view video clips of the rescue, read more articles and media about Lincoln Hall and his rescue on Everest, please go to LincolnHallTribute.info. Below are some articles about the rescue.

NBC Dateline Exclusive - "Left for Dead" Interview of Dan Mazur & Lincoln Hall about the Rescue of Lincoln Hall: Click Here to View

"A Climber Saved, and one Left to Die"

The New York Times, by Alan Cowell

"Left for Dead"

Reader's Digest, by Cathy Free

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"Life and death at 28,000 feet"

Los Angeles Times, by Pete Thomas

"Hero on Everest"

National Geographic Adventure

"Rescue From the Death Zone"

Explore, by Andrew Brash

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"The Mad Season"

National Geographic Adventure, by David Roberts

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"Risking it All"

Seattle Times, by Nancy Bartley

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"Mt. Everest Rescue, Saving A Stranger Left for Dead"

People Magazine

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