Retro-bolting - Background

Background

New climbing routes are produced by a First Ascentionist (FA) scoping out an unclimbed line, deciding to climb a certain section of rock and ultimately climbing it. Typically this first person then gets to name the climb and give it a grading. The route is then generally recorded in a guidebook for posterity. The climb is defined by the style that this person did the climb in, that is, how much protection did they use, was it traditional, did they use bolts or was there a mix of both.

Climbing ethics dictate that a climber should attempt to complete the climb in the same style as the FA, or better. This means that they should use the same type of protection without adding any extra bolts. Retro-bolting is the act of adding additional bolts to a climb that the first ascentionist never needed/added hence making the route either easier or less dangerous.

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