Plainweave Uses
Historic eighteenth century crewel embroidery preferentially used a linen and cotton twill plainweave because it wore well. The fabric's diagonal rib was regarded as an esthetically pleasing contrast to the embroidery, although sometimes it was brushed before working to create a smoother nap. This material, known as fustian originated in Fustât in ancient times and was probably the forerunner of velvet.
Almost any plainweave fabric can be made suitable for goldwork and other metal embroidery. Fine linen is among the easiest to work with. Silk has been the preferred fabric historically in clerical and royal garments to achieve a shiny and sumptuous effect. Lightweight or stretchy plainweaves may require stabilization to prevent puckering. Traditionally a backing of linen or muslin would be used as a stabilizing element. Dressmaker's interlining and water-soluble paper are contemporary alternatives.
Whitework may be worked on either plainweave or counted thread fabric. When worked on plainweave it is known as fine white. Organdy, sheer Dacron, lawn, batiste, muslin, net, and sheer muslin and wool are suitable plainweaves for this type of embroidery.
Stumpwork embroidery can be done on nearly any fabric including silk, satin, felt, linen, cotton, and wool.
Read more about this topic: Plainweave