Design
The tiara is made up of a silver mesh over a felt base and consists of three separate golden crowns. Each crown is inlaid with pearls, 90 on each, a total of 540 pearls on the tiara. The first crown contains sixteen rubies, three emeralds, a hyacinth (yellow zircon), an aquamarine, three rubies, a sapphire, and eight gold points with five garnets and two 'Balas rubies' (red spinels). The second crown has on it ten emeralds, eight spinels, one chrysolite, two aquamarines, six small rubies and three sapphires. The third crown has sixteen small spinels, three larger spinels, four sapphires, three hyacinths, three aquamarines, one garnet, eight gold floral ornaments each with two emeralds, one spinel, a chrysolite and eight gold points, each adorned with a garnet. The top of the tiara beneath the monde is covered with a layer of thin gold, on which are eight rubies and eight emeralds. The gold covering is a gold monde enameled in blue on the top of which is a cross containing eleven brilliants. Jewels are also attached to the lappets.
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“Humility is often only the putting on of a submissiveness by which men hope to bring other people to submit to them; it is a more calculated sort of pride, which debases itself with a design of being exalted; and though this vice transform itself into a thousand several shapes, yet the disguise is never more effectual nor more capable of deceiving the world than when concealed under a form of humility.”
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“With wonderful art he grinds into paint for his picture all his moods and experiences, so that all his forces may be brought to the encounter. Apparently writing without a particular design or responsibility, setting down his soliloquies from time to time, taking advantage of all his humors, when at length the hour comes to declare himself, he puts down in plain English, without quotation marks, what he, Thomas Carlyle, is ready to defend in the face of the world.”
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“What but design of darkness to appall?
If design govern in a thing so small.”
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