Layout
Built in the 18th century, the Norbulingka Palace and the garden within its precincts have undergone several additions over the years. The vast complex covers a garden area of 3.6 km2 including 3.4 km2 of lush green pasture land covered with forests. It is said to be the “highest garden” anywhere in the world and has earned the epithet “Plateau Oxygen Bar.”
The layout of the Norbulingka complex is a combination of the "world's highest, largest and best-preserved ancient artificial horticultural garden". Norbulingka blends gardening with architecture and sculpture arts of several Tibetan ethnic groups; 30,000 cultural relics of ancient Tibetan history are preserved here. The complex is demarcated under five distinct sections. A cluster of buildings to the left of the entrance gate is the Kelsang Phodang (The full name of this palace is "bskal bzang bde skyid pho brang"), named after the 7th Dalai Lama, Kelsang Gyatso (1708–1757). It is a three-storied palace with chambers for the worship of Buddha, bedrooms, reading rooms and shelters at the centre. The Khamsum Zilnon, a two-storied pavilion, is opposite the entry gate. The 8th Dalai Lama, Jamphel Gyatso (1758–1804) substantially enlarged the palace by adding three temples and the perimeter walls on the south east sector and the park also came to life with plantation of fruit trees and evergreens brought from various parts of Tibet. The garden was well developed with a large retinue of gardeners. To the northwest of Kelsang Phodrong is the Tsokyil Phodrong which is a pavilion in the midst of a lake and the Chensil Phodrong. On the west side of Norbulingka is the Golden Phodron, built by a benefactor in 1922 and a cluster of buildings which were built during the 13th Dalai Lama's time. The 13th Dalai Lama, apart from the being responsible for architectural modifications, including the large red doors to the palace, improved the Chensel Lingkha garden to the northwest. To the north of Tsokyil Phodrong is the Takten Migyur Phodrong which was built in 1954 by 14th Dalai Lama and is the most elegant palace in the complex, a fusion of a temple and villa. The new summer palace which faces south was built with Central Government funds and completed in 1956.
The earliest building is the Kelsang Palace built by the Seventh Dalai Lama which is "a beautiful example of Yellow Hat architecture. Dalai Lamas watched, from the first floor of this palace, the folk operas held opposite to the Khamsum Zilnon during the Shoton festival. Its fully restored throne room is also of interest."
The Norbulingka ’s most dramatic area was the Lake Palace built in the southwest area. In the centre of the lake, three islands were connected to the land by short bridges. A palace was built on each island. A horse stable and a row of four houses housed the gifts received by the Dalai Lamas from the Chinese emperors and other foreign dignitaries.
Construction of the 'New Palace' was begun in 1954 by the present Dalai Lama and completed in 1956. It is a double story structure with a Tibetan flat roof. It has an elaborate layout with a maze of rooms and halls. This modern complex contains chapels, gardens, fountains and pools. It is a modern Tibetan style building embellished with ornamentation and facilities. In the first floor of this building, there are 301 paintings (frescoes) on Tibetan History dated to the time when Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama met Chairman Mao Zedong. As of 1986, the palace had an antique Russian radio and a Philips console still containing old 78 rpm records.
The entire Norbulingka complex was delimited by two sets of walls. The inner wall, painted yellow, was exclusive for the Dalai Lama and his attendants. Officials and the Dalai Lama's royal family lived in the area between the inner yellow wall and the outer wall. A dress code was followed for visitors to enter the palace; those wearing Tibetan dress were allowed; guards posted at the entry gates controlled the entry and ensured that no western hat wearing people (which was made popular in Tibet during Lhamdo Dhondups time) were allowed inside. Wearing shoes inside the park was banned. Guards at the gate offered a formal arms salute to the Nobles and high rank officials. Even the officials at the lower category also received a salute. The gates outside the yellow wall were heavily protected. Only the Dalai Lama and his guardians could pass through the gates. Tibetan mastiff dogs kept in niches of the compound walls tied with long yak hair leashes were the guard dogs that patrolled the perimeter of the Norbulingka.
On the east gate to the Norbulingka there are two mythical snow lion statues covered in katag (a thin white scarf as a mark of respect), at the entrance itself; the one on the left is seen with a lion cub. Snow lion is the symbol of Tibet and according to legend they jump from one snow peak to another. Most of the buildings are closed now; have become storehouses or used as offices for those who take care of the maintenance works. Some additional buildings seen now are souvenir kiosks catering to the visitors.
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