Dyeing Methods
The three methods used for mordanting are:
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- Pre-mordanting (onchrome): The substrate is treated with the mordant and then dyed.
- Meta-mordanting (metachrome): The mordant is added in the dye bath itself.
- Post-mordanting (afterchrome): The dyed material is treated with a mordant.
The type of mordant used changes the shade obtained after dyeing and also affects the fastness property of the dye. The application of mordant, either pre-, meta- or post-mordant methods, is influenced by:
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- The action of the mordant on the substrate: if the mordant and dye methods are harsh (e.g. an acidic mordant with an acidic dye), pre- or post- mordanting limits the potential for damage to the substrate.
- The stability of the mordant and/or dye lake: the formation of a stable dye lake means that the mordant can be added in the dye without risk of losing the dye properties (meta-mordanting).
Dye results can also rely on the mordant chosen as the introduction of the mordant into the dye will have a marked effect on the final color. Each dye can have different reactions to each mordant. For example, cochineal scarlet, or Dutch scarlet as it came to be known, used cochineal along with a tin mordant to create a brilliant orange-hued red. Residual iron mordant can damage or fade fabric, producing "dye rot".
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