Lead Climbing Injuries - Falling Correctly

Falling Correctly

Breaking one’s neck can be avoided if a climber learns how to fall correctly. Volker Schöffl and Tomas Küpper of Germany reviewed many reports of injuries caused by climbers who grabbed something as they fell. They analyzed the information and determined the best way to fall.

They found that climbers who grabbed the ascending rope occasionally sustained skin damage (from rope burns) on their hands, became caught in the last piece of protection, unclipped the belay point causing longer and more dangerous falls, and became tangled in the rope. They also found that climbers who grab their ropes above the tying knot might have their fingers amputated by the rope constricting around them. The authors also mention it is detrimental to grab pieces of protection as a climber falls because such piece could impale the climber's hand.

While these injuries happen, the authors imply they did not happen often. However, if a person climbed 3-4 days a week, he could likely take 1000 lead falls a year. With that in mind, Schöffl and Küpper suggest climbers should fall with their hands up and slightly forward and with feet down and slightly forward as well. They explain that this method of falling would allow the climber to make contact with the wall with limbs that can absorb force, rather than with other less-absorbent parts of the body. After impact, Schöffl and Küpper instruct the climber to grab the rope (it is completely stretched out and unable to cause injury) in order to refrain from tipping upside down. This method of falling will eliminate injuries caused by prematurely grabbing the rope or other pieces of protection, as well as virtually eliminating neck injuries.