Kusum Kanguru - Climbing History

Climbing History

With an altitude of 6,367 metres (6,369m or 6,370m according to other map sources), the mountain is classified as a trekking peak, but it is considered one of the most difficult to climb. Out of twenty two attempts between 1978 and 1998, nine successful expeditions have been reported.

After four previously unsuccessful attempts by British, Japanese and two prior New Zealand expeditions, a Japanese expedition lead by Ken Kanazawa reached the subsidiary northeast summit on 9 October 1979.

The first successful ascent of the main summit was made by Bill Denz of New Zealand on 7 October 1981, climbing the southwest buttress (west face), and descending the northwest flank. Denz did not only realise the first ascent, but also the first solo ascent and the first traverse of Kusum Kanguru. Five days later, on 12 October 1981, a Japanese team made the second ascent via the southeast face.

In the subsequent years, new routes have been opened, all of them technically very challenging.

1988 British Expedition led by Nick Mason conquered the previously unclimbed East Face. Expedition doctor was Rob Howarth who later worked in support of Everest Mountain Marathons. Expedition was filmed by Warwick Partington, former ITV & Channel 4 TV director before he later worked on Sky News.