Protecting Ice
Today the most common protection for ice climbing is an ice screw. Ice screws are hollow tubes with sharp teeth on the front end, a hanger eye at the back to clip into, and threading around the tube. They are screwed into the ice and can provide very strong protection in solid ice. However, because of the variable nature of ice, the strength of ice screw placements can vary greatly.
Ice climbers also use the ice itself as protection. The two most common of such techniques are the V-Thread (also known as the "Abalokov" anchor, named after a Russian climber who popularised the technique) and the ice bollard. In a V-thread two intersecting tunnels are bored into the ice to form a "V" shaped tunnel. A sling or cordelette is then threaded through the V and tied in a loop. The rope is passed through the sling, which remains left behind after use.
In an ice bollard ice is chipped away to create a teardrop shaped "bollard". A sling is placed around it, and the rope through the sling, which again is left behind. When ice conditions permit the sling may be dispensed with.
Natural formations, ice hooks, and ice pitons are also used as protection anchors by ice climbers.
Read more about this topic: Ice Climbing
Famous quotes containing the words protecting and/or ice:
“Never has any one been less a priest than Jesus, never a greater enemy of forms, which stifle religion under the pretext of protecting it. By this we are all his disciples and his successors; by this he has laid the eternal foundation-stone of true religion; and if religion is essential to humanity, he has by this deserved the Divine rank the world has accorded him.”
—Ernest Renan (1823–1892)
“Adjoining a refreshment stand ... is a small frame ice house ... with a whitewashed advertisement on its brown front stating, simply, “Ice. Glory to Jesus.” The proprietor of the establishment is a religious man who has seized the opportunity to broadcast his business and his faith at the same time.”
—For the State of New Jersey, U.S. public relief program (1935-1943)