The highest unclimbed mountain in a particular region or in the world is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world surveying and mapping are still not reliable, and there are not comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers and local inhabitants.
However, a major problem relates to the definition of a mountain. Any particular mountain, in addition to its highest point, will also have subsidiary "tops." Generally, a subjective view is taken of what is a mountain and what is a top. The horizontal distance between main peak and top, the difference in height, the topographic prominence of the top, as well as the general topography, all come into consideration. Although objective criteria have been proposed for distinguishing "peaks" from "tops" (a prominence of 610 m, 2,000 feet is one definition), there is no widely agreed standard.
The Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia has a list of unclimbed 7000 m Himalayan peaks which includes tops. The list is somewhat out-of-date: for example Lhotse Middle, 8430 m, was first climbed in spring 2001. Another list is provided on the Explorersweb website using a prominence cutoff of 500 m.
The mountain most widely claimed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms of elevation seems to be Gangkhar Puensum, 7570 m (24,836 feet). It is in Bhutan, on or near the border with China. In Bhutan, climbing of high mountains has been prohibited since 1994. The rationale is based on a combination of (1) the Bhutanese government's respect for local customs that consider this and similar peaks to be the sacred homes of protective spirits and (2) the lack of high-altitude rescue resources from any locale closer than India.
It is also doubtful which is the highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain. This depends greatly on the prominence cutoff. Labuche Kang III/East (7250 m?, Prom=570 m?), near Cho Oyu, is reportedly unclimbed, but its status is hard to verify. It also lacks significant prominence. The former highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain, Saser Kangri II East (7,513 m, Prom=1,450 m), was first climbed on August 24, 2011.
It is similarly troublesome to determine the most prominent unclimbed mountain. Finisterre Range HP (Prom. = 3,675 m), Sauyr Zhotasy (Prom. = 3,252 m) and Mount Siple (Prom. = 3,110 m) all have no record of successful ascents, but the status of each of these peaks is difficult to confirm. Coincidentally, Gangkhar Puensum (Prom. = 2,995 m) is perhaps the most prominent unclimbed mountain that has any reasonable degree of certainty regarding its unclimbed status.
Famous quotes containing the words highest and/or mountain:
““It is of the highest importance in the art of detection to be able to recognise out of a number of facts which are incidental and which are vital.... I would call your attention to the curious incident of the dog in the night-time.”
“The dog did nothing in the night-time.”
“That was the curious incident.””
—Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (1859–1930)
“If I am to be a thoroughfare, I prefer that it be of the mountain brooks, the Parnassian streams, and not the town sewers. There is inspiration, that gossip which comes to the ear of the attentive mind from the courts of heaven. There is the profane and stale revelation of the barroom and the police court. The same ear is fitted to receive both communications. Only the character of the hearer determines to which it shall be open, and to which closed.”
—Henry David Thoreau (1817–1862)