Henry Barber (rock Climber) - Ice Climbing

Ice Climbing

In 1977, Barber travelled with Rob Taylor to Scotland and Norway to climb waterfalls. They did the (likely) first ascent of the Vettisfossen near Ardal, Norway (300m, WI5), among other climbs.

In early 1978, Henry and partner Rob Taylor attempted the first ascent of the Breach Wall on Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. Taylor fell while leading steep ice, and broke his ankle very badly. The details of what happened following the accident vary depending on which of the two parties is telling the story. Barber's party says that Barber helped Taylor descend; got him to a hospital; and then left to fly back to the United States to keep a speaking commitment. Taylor's party says that Barber abandoned him on the mountain, forcing him to climb down alone with his leg mangled. He somehow reached the rainforest at the base of the mountain and was rescued by local tribesman. Taylor nearly lost his leg at the hospital, and felt abandoned by his partner. After he recovered, Taylor wrote articles and a book painting Barber in a very unflattering light.

This incident effectively ended Barber's career as a top climber. Barber continued to climb at a very high level after the Taylor incident, for example making the first free ascent of Women in Love (5.12), Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire. Barber continues to travel worldwide, climbing in his own style and learning other's styles. He eschews modern camming devices and harnesses, preferring the simpler, more rigorous style of nuts and swami belt.

Barber currently lives near North Conway, New Hampshire. He still climbs, and presents climbing slide shows and lectures.