Figure Painting (hobby) - Techniques

Techniques

Undercoating, commonly known as priming, provides a better surface for the paint to adhere to and – with white metal minis – inhibits corrosion of the alloy. The undercoat may be any color. Some painters always use black, which provides the deepest shadows in hard-to-reach areas that later painting might miss, but which can be difficult to cover with paler colors.

Highlighting and shading are complementary techniques used to emphasize the light and shade across the surface texture of the figure, such as creases and folds in fabric, fur, etc. Highlighting is the application of lighter tones than the base color to raised areas. Shading is the application of darker tones to recessed areas.

Blending ensures the smooth transition of the different tones into one another to improve the verisimilitude of the faux light and shade. This different tones are simply worked into one another on the figure while the paint is still wet. Blending works well with enamels (and oils) but not with acrylics, which dry too quickly, unless a retarder is used. The same effect as blending can be achieved with acrylics by applying successive layers of color in smaller and smaller areas ("feathers"). The layers of paint build up a "hill" of successively lighter (or darker) tones.

Dry brushing is a highlighting technique that works especially well with finely textured surfaces such as fur, feathers, and chainmail. After applying the base color and initial highlighting and shading, a very light tone is applied by lightly dragging an almost-dry brush across the surface. Washes of thinned paint or inks can be used to "fill in" the shadows. A very diluted transparent layer of color can be applied to soften harsh contrasts. Outlining is painting a solid dark thin line that separates areas and defines details by acting as a bold shadow. The darkest tone should be used. Black gives the greatest contrast and might suit minis rather than larger-scale model figures; this would be blacklining. Edging is a less-often used complementary technique with the lightest tone.

Metallic paints are available in all kinds of paint and can be used for metals. Some blending etc. may be required; for example, gunmetal might be highlighted with silver. Black or brown ink washes can provide suitable shading and can be particularly effective for large areas of metal such as plate armour. Most of these paints, however, are relatively dull and lack the "lustre" of true metal. Some painters use alcohol-based metallic paints that have a brilliant finish... but these need to be used with care, especially in conjunction with acrylics, as contact with water can cause tarnishing. Bright steel can be achieved with white metal and pewter figures by burnishing and gloss varnishing the unpainted metal. This works particularly well with swords, axes, etc. Many painters prefer to simulate the appearance of metals using non-metallic paints. For example, steel can by mimicked by using various shades of grey from black to white. The aim is not to define light and shadow but the play of light across a polished surface. This is really the same technique that airbrush artists might use to simulate a glossy surface, but applied to a 3D model.

There is so many differents techniques in miniature painting, that varies if the aim is to paint figurines to play with, or paint miniatures for displays, or competitions. Summarizing technique in one article is almost impossible, but exists large sources of information and tutorials, either in book : Le grand livre de la peinture sur figurine (french only) or website : Tutofig.com free tutorial compendium.