Choli - Changing Times

Changing Times

During the 1960s, a woman was not considered quite a 'lady' if she bared her neckline way too daringly and shoved the sari pallu on to one side, only to give a glimpse of her bosom.A lady of honour ideally covered her back and upper arms, and her blouse was made of a thick fabric. Of course, every woman followed the norm. In the 1970s and 1980s, the blouses went knotty, criss-crossed with a deep cut and shone through the sheer saree. Anupama Raj, a boutique owner commented,"There is a very real need to re-invent the choli so that it can be worn with a variety of outfits. Just as we see the choli to be a deconstructed form of the blouse, we need to deconstruct the choli. Only then, will it be acceptable internationally." Bobby Malik, an exporter-turned-designer commented,"The choli is the most sensuous of all garments created for women.It not only flatters the feminine form, but also brings out the romanticism in a woman. But where Indian designers have failed is at giving it an international look and making it still more beautiful."

Today the entire approach towards the choli is adventurous.The metamorphosis of cholis from being demure and sedate in the past decades to daring in terms of adventurous tailoring with innovative necklines such as halter, tubes, backless or stringed, is worth a mention. Designer Manish Malhotra told, "Since most young people follow a healthy gym routine and are at ease with their bodies, they want to look different and still be effortlessly comfortable. They like to travel and carry a sense of Indianness around them." Designer Vikram Phadnis told,"It's also to do with the fact that the new age woman is well-travelled, well-read and open to experimentation." Sonora Kabir, another Delhi-based designer commented,"Normally, the choli is supposed to hover around the navel area. But if you crop the lower edges and combine it with a funky design — beads, embroidery etc.,— it would be chic enough to be worn over jeans or a pair of trousers."