Aonach Eagach - Traverse of The Ridge

Traverse of The Ridge

The Aonach Eagach is normally tackled from the Glen Coe (south) side in an east–west traverse. From Allt-na-reigh near the head of Glen Coe it is possible to ascend grass slopes leading to Am Bodach (a subsidiary Munro top), before continuing westwards along the ridge to the first Munro proper, Meal Dearg.

From here the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh lies only two kilometres to the west, but a number of pinnacles must be scrambled over, and it is not uncommon for parties to take more than two hours to cross this seemingly short distance. There are a couple of sections where the use of a rope may prove prudent.

From Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, the most direct descent is to head south by southwest, down a steep zig-zag path leading by the side of Clachaig gully. This 'path' is exceptionally steep and extremely loose in places, and has many small rock steps; it approaches close to the main gully in several places and so is potentially dangerous (fatal accidents have occurred here). A gentler alternative is to continue along the ridge, until reaching the bealach between Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and the Pap of Glencoe. From here a track heads down the hillside, ending on the road just outside Glencoe village. It is also possible to retreat approximately 200m east from the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and descend directly down the scree slope to Loch Achtriochtan, taking care to avoid being drawn into gullies further down. This descent also requires care, particularly near the top, but is still far safer than the Clachaig Gully descent.

Alternatively, the two Munros may be climbed individually by simply descending by the route of ascent. However it is for the traverse that the Aonach Eagach is best known.

In winter, the ridge is a fine expedition, though considerably harder than in summer (Scottish Winter Grade I/II), and many parties will go roped for some sections. Because of the short winter days, benightment on the ridge or its approaches is also not infrequent.

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